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I have never really written about Poh a thriteen year old boy who befriended us, and many other westerners in Phnom Penh. I hope that he is well and healthy and through generosity of foreigners, travellers and tourists manages to get his education off the streets and into school. Everyday he peddles books from a tray round his neck but his charm, cheek and persistence meant I would go next door to the shop to get his daily coke and let him play racing games on my phone or laptop. Why? because Poh symbolised Cambodia, it is a country that is ripe for western aid and imperialism through development agencies, it is ripe for raping its natural resources yet I implore anyone who reads this to let Cambodia find its own feet in the world, stop the child exploitation and sex tourist trade but let the smiles and beauty of its people shine through. They have emerged from horror blinking into a society that is both religious and unsteady. It needs support but not dominance. Cambodia is the most awesome nation I have ever been to and I would tomorrow go again to experience more of its splendour and isolation. When I think I have it tough I think of Poh, whose home is with his grandparents, whose school days are the street, whose english already has sarcasm and wit and whose strengh I admired. Once and only once in that week in the capital did I see him as a child laughing and playing with his siblings in the grounds of S21...the irony is there for all to see. The mechanic who knew from sign language what I needed done to fix my front rack. The norrie train and its sad demise in the face of the race for speed, access and imported wealth The kindness of our friend outside Bangkok demonstrated how Thailand could still be the land of smiles. The chilli levels still make my toes and tongue curl but it has increased my tolerance no end. Our epic ride across central penisula Thailand through the rain and storms on our longest day will live with me for the mental strenght my angel brought to bear and who managed me throughout the trip. We were there for each other 100% and we ebbed and flowed like I have with no other, 102 days together and only 1hr and 45 mins apart in that entire time...that beats Relate and any other counselling model I know to determine can 2 people work together and be together physically, emotionally and intellectually. They can if they feel they have nothing to prove to each other only to themselves. Stopping in the Tsunami centre in Thailand was another moment in that it humbled me more than any other event or activity. The Blue Mansion on Penang was utterly beautiful and should be on everyones list of places to see before their maker decides their sell by date is up. Being paddled in a canoe through Jurrasic Park Meeting Rashid and his friends and that continuing ebased relationship has shown that some things do and are meant to be. Seeing and understanding what a song bird is and how they compete, I dont understand it but in some way can relate to its simplicity Riding a wide berth round men walking their prize and highly decorated Bulls at 7am along the side of a dual carriageway into a city Tioman, the island on which I proposed to Georgie will have different and lasting memories as will the Sunday morning in March when she said yes and a new chapter began... Thank you for reading this and sharing my journey, it wont make a Hollywood film, but when you love someone and you know in your head, your heart and your gut that it really is love, it can make you do the craziest of things... Take care, be safe and live life everyday |
Friday, 17 June 2011
Reflections
The last day of this adventure
We woke, breakfasted outside on the terrace watching mr mouse run the guantlet of the street outside of Sleepy Sams, it was warm and muggy and there was much shopping to be done as neither of us had actually bought any clothing or shoes capable of withstanding the climate in the UK in February. We managed one mall, they are all large, they are all relatively faceless but packed with the usual and the unusual brands.
After a day of this we headed back, grabbed our gear and over to rodalink to do final packing and then the taxi plus bikes to the airport. Uneventful all the way really until we reached the airport, breathed in and prayed that the bikes and luggage would go through at 30kg each. seriously if you can fly emriates, the service was superb and although we were a tad over no problem and we were in the enormous state of the art airport departures with enough time for dinner and another brief shop.
On closer inspection our flight seemed to have grown legs, at least another stage as we were now flying to Dubai, which we knew but via Columbo, Sri Lanka! we waved farewell to our adventure and landed at some time in the early hours of the morning at Colombo airport where we sat on the plane, endured the deodorising sprays that are part of an odd set of regulations and then we set off for Dubai.
Dubai airport was ok, breakfast was both arms and legs required and some currency conversion and after a 3hour layover we headed forwards to Heathrow.
the flight was uneventful other than cramming in as many movies as I could and we arrived to a decidedly murky world of the UK and my bro and his truck with Charlie for the 2 hour drive home to somerset for a couple of days before taking G back to Eastbourne.
Reflections are many and they will follow sometime soon
After a day of this we headed back, grabbed our gear and over to rodalink to do final packing and then the taxi plus bikes to the airport. Uneventful all the way really until we reached the airport, breathed in and prayed that the bikes and luggage would go through at 30kg each. seriously if you can fly emriates, the service was superb and although we were a tad over no problem and we were in the enormous state of the art airport departures with enough time for dinner and another brief shop.
On closer inspection our flight seemed to have grown legs, at least another stage as we were now flying to Dubai, which we knew but via Columbo, Sri Lanka! we waved farewell to our adventure and landed at some time in the early hours of the morning at Colombo airport where we sat on the plane, endured the deodorising sprays that are part of an odd set of regulations and then we set off for Dubai.
Dubai airport was ok, breakfast was both arms and legs required and some currency conversion and after a 3hour layover we headed forwards to Heathrow.
the flight was uneventful other than cramming in as many movies as I could and we arrived to a decidedly murky world of the UK and my bro and his truck with Charlie for the 2 hour drive home to somerset for a couple of days before taking G back to Eastbourne.
Reflections are many and they will follow sometime soon
A new culture...kind of
February 1st to February 5th 2011
I have very differing memories of Singapore, all good but I guess tinged with the reality that this was our final destination before heading home and all that lay in store for us.
The logistics stuff needed to be done such as getting the bikes cleaned down and boxed up, we decided to fedex our heavier kit home to avoid the crippling excess that had befallen me on my way out here and thanks go to the lady at Fedex who was so helpful and also to Rodalink for sorting out the bikes for us.
I think that Singapore is definitely for you if you love the western/eastern vibe, luxury and indulgence. I used to but found it stifling at times. I think it is because we became more tourist than adventurers and i know now what really appeals to me.
Chinatown on the day before the Chinese New Year was spectacular in sounds, sights and crowds. The night safari was a breathtaking experience especially seeing the flying fox bats in action and I have to recommend this as long as you keep the noise to a minimum and be patient., Little India was the closest I have come to experiencing real India and such a contrast to the rest of Singapore, the MRT did exactly what it said it would in transporting you round the city. Sentosa Island was an experience..more on this one later however in amongst all of this was the opportunity to reflect on what we had achieved together.
I had never cycled toured, I had none of the kit 4 weeks before I left, I have 2 beautiful children, I was away from them for Christmas and my birthday and yet in the space of 3 weeks I told them I was going away, I bought the kit, I bought the bike and set off on the biggest adventure of my life. It was without doubt the maddest, most challenging and awesome thing I have ever done and will require a little thinking about to share my views so more on this and Sentosa to come but here is Singapore in pictures
Sentosa Island is at the southern most tip of mainland SE Asia. Purpose built, imported sand from other nations such as Malaysia have made a beach, well 4 and dependant on your level of well healedness you could visit any. Whislt we were there we witnessed the discipline and rigour that makes Singapore one of the safest places to be a tourist...well kind of.
It was mid way through the afternoon and we were swimming in the lagoon with the sights of the worlds largest port all around us. Suddenly one of the very official looking life guards grabbed his bullhorn and exclaimed in singlese that there was a category 4 lightening storm approaching and everyone, I mean everyone had to leave the sea. Amazing! there were many indian men at the beach in their usual groups of 20 with jeans of varying fits, leather shoes and shirts. Many taking photos ill disguised of the beauties on the beach and not there friends standing to one side of behind them. They also like to swim, in their boxers, also forbidden.
Mr lifeguard had a job on his hands and thank you to my very large friend next to us on the beach who not only was an awesome beat boxer but also could mimic the bullhorn and the guys voice so to much amusement did and corrected the english of the lifegueard and made up some instructions on what people could do. Lifeguard 2 turned up on a segway the chosen vehicle of the troop and after 45 minutes of rule breaking swimmers and no sign of the now category 2 lightening storm we were allowed back in the sea.
On our return to the cable car we decided to experience 4D cinema - very good and very real to the point the rollercoaster ride threw up all sorts of memories. We wandered home and knew that the very next day was to be our final of this adventure.
I have very differing memories of Singapore, all good but I guess tinged with the reality that this was our final destination before heading home and all that lay in store for us.
The logistics stuff needed to be done such as getting the bikes cleaned down and boxed up, we decided to fedex our heavier kit home to avoid the crippling excess that had befallen me on my way out here and thanks go to the lady at Fedex who was so helpful and also to Rodalink for sorting out the bikes for us.
I think that Singapore is definitely for you if you love the western/eastern vibe, luxury and indulgence. I used to but found it stifling at times. I think it is because we became more tourist than adventurers and i know now what really appeals to me.
Chinatown on the day before the Chinese New Year was spectacular in sounds, sights and crowds. The night safari was a breathtaking experience especially seeing the flying fox bats in action and I have to recommend this as long as you keep the noise to a minimum and be patient., Little India was the closest I have come to experiencing real India and such a contrast to the rest of Singapore, the MRT did exactly what it said it would in transporting you round the city. Sentosa Island was an experience..more on this one later however in amongst all of this was the opportunity to reflect on what we had achieved together.
I had never cycled toured, I had none of the kit 4 weeks before I left, I have 2 beautiful children, I was away from them for Christmas and my birthday and yet in the space of 3 weeks I told them I was going away, I bought the kit, I bought the bike and set off on the biggest adventure of my life. It was without doubt the maddest, most challenging and awesome thing I have ever done and will require a little thinking about to share my views so more on this and Sentosa to come but here is Singapore in pictures
 |
| China town gearing up |
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| China town in full flow |
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| Millions of them |
 |
| Yep converse all stars on a mutt |
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| Now it was the year of the....damn it I forget |
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| Chinatown as was |
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| Look a little closer and you will see they are asleep |
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| The light of my life |
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| Me |
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| The view from the cable car to Sentosa |
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| A massive flower display dedicated to the year of the.... |
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| A pose that is normally eastern led |
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| A water feature we were asked to remove ourselves from |
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| Just to prove we were there |
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| Singapore in a sign |
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| Leaving sentosa |
It was mid way through the afternoon and we were swimming in the lagoon with the sights of the worlds largest port all around us. Suddenly one of the very official looking life guards grabbed his bullhorn and exclaimed in singlese that there was a category 4 lightening storm approaching and everyone, I mean everyone had to leave the sea. Amazing! there were many indian men at the beach in their usual groups of 20 with jeans of varying fits, leather shoes and shirts. Many taking photos ill disguised of the beauties on the beach and not there friends standing to one side of behind them. They also like to swim, in their boxers, also forbidden.
Mr lifeguard had a job on his hands and thank you to my very large friend next to us on the beach who not only was an awesome beat boxer but also could mimic the bullhorn and the guys voice so to much amusement did and corrected the english of the lifegueard and made up some instructions on what people could do. Lifeguard 2 turned up on a segway the chosen vehicle of the troop and after 45 minutes of rule breaking swimmers and no sign of the now category 2 lightening storm we were allowed back in the sea.
On our return to the cable car we decided to experience 4D cinema - very good and very real to the point the rollercoaster ride threw up all sorts of memories. We wandered home and knew that the very next day was to be our final of this adventure.
Saturday, 4 June 2011
The final leg
31st January 2011 - Koti Tinggi to Singapore - 48.26 miles, av 10, max 25.9, ride time 4hrs 47mins
Horrendous in a word. There are no photos of this bit as the rain fell in monsoon sheets from the moment we set off til we arrived in central Singapore. The road conditions were horrendous not just in terms of rain but also the state of the road on the main drag into Johor Bahru, the last city before Singapore.
At one point we managed to avoid a pothole about 8ft across and on the other side of it, 5 cars all with blown out tyres after being less fortunate than us. Cycling into Johor is not for the feint hearted but one tip we followed and have already recommended for others is follow the first sign that says to the customs point with a weight limit of 5 tons and you end up opposite the motorbike entrance to Woodlands the complex built as a crossing point from Malaysia to Singapore. Immigration and customs were more interested in our journey than most and we emerged onto the bridge that separates these 2 nations.
Cycling for another 5 minutes puts you in Singapore where the regulation and rigour that awaits your stay here starts. Quick stamps, asking the local police the best way into the city and we were off, ignoring their advice that they 'thought' it would be ok to use the highway/expressway and settled for the slightly longer route circumventing this.
I was not in a great mood to enjoy the sights as we cycled into Sing and part of this was we by far in a way needed a more detailed map and secondly there are more traffic lights in Sing than I have ever seen anywhere in the world.
Lunch was a quick stop and to get some cash then we hunted out Arab street and our home for the next 5 days - 'sleepy sams'. we arrived, checked in, stored the bikes, and sat for a bit to calm the mental whirling that had befallen us on our last day of riding. It did not feel like elation, more dejection that after so many revolutions we would not be riding like we had for a while longer in our lives.
Dinner in the Moroccan restaurant opposite SS was a good end to the day but when my head hit the pillow that night, I felt there really was some unfinished business.
Horrendous in a word. There are no photos of this bit as the rain fell in monsoon sheets from the moment we set off til we arrived in central Singapore. The road conditions were horrendous not just in terms of rain but also the state of the road on the main drag into Johor Bahru, the last city before Singapore.
At one point we managed to avoid a pothole about 8ft across and on the other side of it, 5 cars all with blown out tyres after being less fortunate than us. Cycling into Johor is not for the feint hearted but one tip we followed and have already recommended for others is follow the first sign that says to the customs point with a weight limit of 5 tons and you end up opposite the motorbike entrance to Woodlands the complex built as a crossing point from Malaysia to Singapore. Immigration and customs were more interested in our journey than most and we emerged onto the bridge that separates these 2 nations.
Cycling for another 5 minutes puts you in Singapore where the regulation and rigour that awaits your stay here starts. Quick stamps, asking the local police the best way into the city and we were off, ignoring their advice that they 'thought' it would be ok to use the highway/expressway and settled for the slightly longer route circumventing this.
I was not in a great mood to enjoy the sights as we cycled into Sing and part of this was we by far in a way needed a more detailed map and secondly there are more traffic lights in Sing than I have ever seen anywhere in the world.
Lunch was a quick stop and to get some cash then we hunted out Arab street and our home for the next 5 days - 'sleepy sams'. we arrived, checked in, stored the bikes, and sat for a bit to calm the mental whirling that had befallen us on our last day of riding. It did not feel like elation, more dejection that after so many revolutions we would not be riding like we had for a while longer in our lives.
Dinner in the Moroccan restaurant opposite SS was a good end to the day but when my head hit the pillow that night, I felt there really was some unfinished business.
Monsoon Season
30th January - Mersing to Kota Tinggi - 56.21 miles, Av 10.7, Max 28.5, 5 hours and 12 minutes
Ummm - a quick description of the day - gradients, gradients, monsoon, snakes, flooding, kingfishers, monkeys and a thunderstorm plus more flooding...if you have not got the time this probably sums up the day.
This was a day of gradients and whilst we had not been in the saddle for a while, they were still undulating to say the least. We left Mersing in the murky dawn and arrived in Kota Tinggi in monsoon rain and flooding, it was one of those days were what you wore dictated how you felt.The hard shoulder was good though until we really needed it on the outskirts of KT were it formed a river 8 inches deep that neither of us could cycle through so we joined the traffic on the 2 lane highway which had its moments of scariness.
We rode south from Mersing though palm oil after palm oil plantation with only the brilliance of the kingfishers to maintain our momentum. Our morning break stop in a tiny little shack on the road side was a most welcome break from the rain
and lunch in a coach stop was a buffet affair where we came objects of conversation and viewing.
The roads were undulating and in one spot we stopped to test the water as it flooded across the road, I probably did not need to test it as many times as I did but it was a first and needed to be experienced.
Saw these 2 pill box affairs on the side of the road, as we rode past it was extremely concerning to note the amount of different colours of paint that had been left after drivers misjudging the fact that these small things jut out into the road very slightly!
We rode on during the afternoon and then the rain of the monsoon really came down, cars hit their brakes and hazards went on, the traffic was crawling at around 5mph both ways and it is the only time on the trip so far we were (a) forced to stop because of the weather and (b) unable to get a shot of the 'beware of wild elephants' sign - looking just like the sign for cattle in the UK in an unassuming way but with the words 'wild' and 'elephant' emblazoned on them. We had been warned that during the early hours of the morning they do like to come on to the road as the tarmac retains the heat of the day. Many motorists coming north from Sing have met a sticky end at the flanks of one of these beasts but it kept our friend in Tioman in work!
This was the abandoned restaurant that sheltered us for 30mins whilst we waited for the rain to ease. Complete with rusty hinged swinging door, it wasnt relaxing but at least it was semi dry.
Once the rain had got down to a more manageable level, one in which we could see and be seen we headed on to Kota Tinggi. The flooding got worse and a hotel in town became our sole focus. The Water Lillies hotel would not pass through the ASA regulations as it was missing its vital title ingredient but the owner, we think he was, had a shop next door which he let us store the bikes in and then promptly shut the shop up. We strolled the town and supermarket opposite for last minute and breakfast supplies then we headed off to internet heaven in McDs which also sadly became dinner in the absence of any restaurant staff in the nearby eateries willing to serve us. Tomorrow we head into Singapore....
Ummm - a quick description of the day - gradients, gradients, monsoon, snakes, flooding, kingfishers, monkeys and a thunderstorm plus more flooding...if you have not got the time this probably sums up the day.
This was a day of gradients and whilst we had not been in the saddle for a while, they were still undulating to say the least. We left Mersing in the murky dawn and arrived in Kota Tinggi in monsoon rain and flooding, it was one of those days were what you wore dictated how you felt.The hard shoulder was good though until we really needed it on the outskirts of KT were it formed a river 8 inches deep that neither of us could cycle through so we joined the traffic on the 2 lane highway which had its moments of scariness.
We rode south from Mersing though palm oil after palm oil plantation with only the brilliance of the kingfishers to maintain our momentum. Our morning break stop in a tiny little shack on the road side was a most welcome break from the rain
and lunch in a coach stop was a buffet affair where we came objects of conversation and viewing.
The roads were undulating and in one spot we stopped to test the water as it flooded across the road, I probably did not need to test it as many times as I did but it was a first and needed to be experienced.
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| should be ok |
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| it is ok! |
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| Relief at the top of a gradient takes many faces |
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| especially when the next one is downhill |
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| but then again up |
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| and down and up and down and up |
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| Wish I could find out what these were? |
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| Not impressed but better than riding out this one |
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| Wet....very |
Once the rain had got down to a more manageable level, one in which we could see and be seen we headed on to Kota Tinggi. The flooding got worse and a hotel in town became our sole focus. The Water Lillies hotel would not pass through the ASA regulations as it was missing its vital title ingredient but the owner, we think he was, had a shop next door which he let us store the bikes in and then promptly shut the shop up. We strolled the town and supermarket opposite for last minute and breakfast supplies then we headed off to internet heaven in McDs which also sadly became dinner in the absence of any restaurant staff in the nearby eateries willing to serve us. Tomorrow we head into Singapore....
Stranded
January 27th
A5.30am alarm call and we packed up and loaded up for the less than a km ride to the port, no boat til Sunday....at the earliest...so back we went to not much surprise from anyone and G laid down and zonked.
I went to breakfast and had a entertaining feast of conversation with Peter. He was a psychologist and lectured in it back in his native Netherlands but after traveling Europe in his camper he drove onto a boat and arrived in Chile. He was probably one of the most learned conversationalists or should I say learned monologue experts but it was interesting to hear that even at the ripe young age of 74 you can still not rid your spirit of the travel bug. I know of the madness of governmental bureaucracy in the UK but in Europe I was not so well informed. Imagine traveling all over Europe for 4 years and each year having to return home to tax your vehicle...bonkers if you think about it...which I hadnt up until then.
G and I eventually wandered down to the beach cafe for banana pancakes which was better than sitting in the bungalow waiting for the toilet to be unblocked! Not a fault of ours you will be pleased to hear more the tree roots and pipes in the sand having ongoing battles. No news on boats so we will remain optimistic for Sunday as this now directly impacts on our plans for Sing.
28th January
Chill, chill, eat, chill - if this paid a wage I could seriously get used to it. We spent the day writing blog updates and trying in vain to publish them on struggling internet connections and then a power cut put paid to any further attempts. The evening was spent with our new friends in the beach bar. All the guys were playing instruments or singing or both tonight. It was a privilege to be welcomed into their world and we spent a good hour talking to the bar owner who also happens to be, and in no particular order - dive instructor, climber, cyclist, surfer, singer, drummer, fire stick instructor, tow truck driver and grandson of one of the 4 founding families of Tioman. He is one of the most educated, informative and above all humblest of individuals I have ever met and at the ripe old age of 30 his views on the environment, ecology and community were just awesome. I want to live on this island at some stage in my life and if not to visit again.
29th January - the storm part 2
Woken in the early hours by the crashing of waves and wailing of the storm wind as it did its utmost to remove us from our 3rd bungalow and all thoughts of getting up early to see if the boat was there started to fade. We woke to find a calm see and a queue to get back on the first boat to the mainland. We met a family from New Zealand who had been trekking as a 6 across India and Nepal and were on Tioman for a short break...longer than anticipated but they were interested in our travels as much as we theirs. What an amazing education for their children.It was 13.00 before we set off and whilst the boat tried to dock at all villages south it was unable to do so, the sea was rough. G slept with me doing my best to maintain equilibrium just sitting in the seat. There was a lot going on around us and they took a different route back, slower but allegedly safer.
Watched Tekken on DVD and almost before we knew it we were in Mersing 2 hours later.
Hotel Mersing was our stop for the night, Internet cafe and back to P's for dinner and to share our tales with the Swiss owners. No matter what they say, Tioman is worth a visit, but please do not tell everyone.
A5.30am alarm call and we packed up and loaded up for the less than a km ride to the port, no boat til Sunday....at the earliest...so back we went to not much surprise from anyone and G laid down and zonked.
I went to breakfast and had a entertaining feast of conversation with Peter. He was a psychologist and lectured in it back in his native Netherlands but after traveling Europe in his camper he drove onto a boat and arrived in Chile. He was probably one of the most learned conversationalists or should I say learned monologue experts but it was interesting to hear that even at the ripe young age of 74 you can still not rid your spirit of the travel bug. I know of the madness of governmental bureaucracy in the UK but in Europe I was not so well informed. Imagine traveling all over Europe for 4 years and each year having to return home to tax your vehicle...bonkers if you think about it...which I hadnt up until then.
G and I eventually wandered down to the beach cafe for banana pancakes which was better than sitting in the bungalow waiting for the toilet to be unblocked! Not a fault of ours you will be pleased to hear more the tree roots and pipes in the sand having ongoing battles. No news on boats so we will remain optimistic for Sunday as this now directly impacts on our plans for Sing.
28th January
Chill, chill, eat, chill - if this paid a wage I could seriously get used to it. We spent the day writing blog updates and trying in vain to publish them on struggling internet connections and then a power cut put paid to any further attempts. The evening was spent with our new friends in the beach bar. All the guys were playing instruments or singing or both tonight. It was a privilege to be welcomed into their world and we spent a good hour talking to the bar owner who also happens to be, and in no particular order - dive instructor, climber, cyclist, surfer, singer, drummer, fire stick instructor, tow truck driver and grandson of one of the 4 founding families of Tioman. He is one of the most educated, informative and above all humblest of individuals I have ever met and at the ripe old age of 30 his views on the environment, ecology and community were just awesome. I want to live on this island at some stage in my life and if not to visit again.
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| The morning after the night before |
29th January - the storm part 2
Woken in the early hours by the crashing of waves and wailing of the storm wind as it did its utmost to remove us from our 3rd bungalow and all thoughts of getting up early to see if the boat was there started to fade. We woke to find a calm see and a queue to get back on the first boat to the mainland. We met a family from New Zealand who had been trekking as a 6 across India and Nepal and were on Tioman for a short break...longer than anticipated but they were interested in our travels as much as we theirs. What an amazing education for their children.It was 13.00 before we set off and whilst the boat tried to dock at all villages south it was unable to do so, the sea was rough. G slept with me doing my best to maintain equilibrium just sitting in the seat. There was a lot going on around us and they took a different route back, slower but allegedly safer.
Watched Tekken on DVD and almost before we knew it we were in Mersing 2 hours later.
Hotel Mersing was our stop for the night, Internet cafe and back to P's for dinner and to share our tales with the Swiss owners. No matter what they say, Tioman is worth a visit, but please do not tell everyone.
Tuesday, 15 March 2011
Paradise - sshhhhhhh
23rd January 2011 - Mersing to Tioman
If you are reading this and the title really appeals to your sense of imagination then this will disappoint. I say disappoint in the sense that I really hope you don't read on as if too many people do then decide to go to this magical place then it will no longer be as magical and we all need to work out how to keep it so.
It was a late get up as the ferry did not depart til 11am, so i wandered into Mersing town to buy breakfast supplies and we lazed and packed up ready to join the fray at the port. Purchasing our tickets the night before seemed to have paid off and once we had then purchased our national park ticket to get onto the island we sat and waited til the movements of the masses indicated that the ferry would soon be loading. Omar was around again and after a look out to sea told me that the crossing would be ok....
We paid the inevitable fee for us loading our bikes on to the ferry and we headed out to sea through swells of 3-4ft and spray which I knew would test my brooks saddle. G nodded off to the movement of the boat and I watched the world go by including a barge of sand which towered at least 2 stories high headed down to Singapore, destined to reinforce another 'natural beach' or by sent on further around the globe.
The ferry arrived at the first drop off then made its way up the island, first impressions were awesome, a steep green spine of mountains running north to south with isolated villages clinging to the west coast only accessible by boat and some by foot. Our stop we had decided on the night before after much thinking was to be the main town of Teket. Now there is much out there on the interweb about this town and what we saw was extremely derogatory which actually is ok in that it means a few less people will come here and it will remain as unspoilt and as natural as it can in the 21st Century.
The island has a fascinating history, it is nearer Indonesia than Malaysia, founded a while back by 4 main families after a royal decree granted tracts of land to the first settlers and we met at least one of their descendants. Teket is the main town and on the left of the main jetty is what remains of the last attempt by the government to modernise the island, a promenade which is in part tiled and in part patched by concrete. The main port and jetty are new and still being finished along with a smart but questionably needed marina. There is a runway which provides flights for those in Singapore and KL who want a weekend away.
We off loaded our bikes, re packed and set off. Turning right at the end of the port road we headed down the concrete road past shops, restaurants (many closed for the refurbishment of the winter season), duty free stores and accommodation of every type and to suit most budgets. We were headed to Swiss Cottage, primarily because of the reviews and wanting our mini break and chill before the last leg of the journey and then home, to be as memorable as we possibly could make it.
We arrived amongst the palm trees to be greeted by a group of munchkins before we were able to check in to our beach side home for the next couple of days. I will leave the photos to do justice of where we found ourselves
After a couple of hours over lunch on the veranda, we wander back onto the road and down into town to check out the essentials of laundry, internet, bakery and duty free. Internet on the island was very much dependent on the power supply and being off season meant that we ended up using the shop owners laptop at the counter to skype my munchkins. Back home then onto the bikes to explore the road end to end, did not take long and we did detour up to the mosque to see the start of the jungle trek path so we knew where to head tomorrow. lots of smiles, hellos and genuine warmth from the people who make this island what it is.
Dinner at the chinese restaurant down the road was good and then it was back to base. Uninterrupted sleep was not for long as the heaving ocean outside the room was a sound to get used to.
24th January - Teket to Juara - 8km trek
Today we woke early to get out and up over the island via the jungle trek, a path that was originally cut by the Japanese during WW2 when Juara was the only inhabitable place on the island, and they were searching for places to store munitions. The path is a size 8 shoe wide and winds up the mountain through rainforest, it is a steep, in places stepped path that follows the route of the water feed to the island and the power cables, which in places are your only guide as to heading in the right direction.
A lizard with attitude was our first visible wildlife encounter, it was not going to move for us, so we carefully stepped round and headed onwards. Long tailed macaques, giant black squirrels along with lizards and the occasional audible telltale slither in the undergrowth tracked our progress as we climbed higher.
Boy was it hot and humid, we had taken 3 litres of water each and by the time we reached the intersection with the one road that goes over the island we were down to our last 1/4 each. The road down into Juara was passable by 4x4 only primarily due to the steepness and it tested ones ability to walk in a manner that did leave you with balloon bruised knees.
Juara was sleepy but we settled down to a hearty brunch and watched the waves rolling in across the almost deserted beach
After feeding and re stocking our energy we wandered down to the beach and spent a couple of hours in the sea before negotiating a ride back over the mountains to home. We had a chat with the south african boyfriend of the property owners daughter and got up to speed on island life before we toddled down the road for another sumptuous feast at the chinese restaurant.
25th January 2011
Lazy day started with breakfast and a long conversation with a Scottish couple and Peter, the intrepid Dutchman now residing in Chile on his way to see his sister in Bali for her 80th birthday. Peter is a retired professor of psychology who has a view on many things and enjoys sharing it. We also found out that staying in the next resort to ours was a world renowned forensic entomologist! Blog update writing and playing in the massive waves now rolling in filled the afternoon before dinner...at the same place as the nights before.
26th January 2011 - The aftermath
Last night Tioman was hit by the worst storm in 3 years, we heard a lot of it but strangely slept through. we opened the door this morning to see the beach covered in debris and one of the bungalows behind us having been the resting place for a large tree. Islanders were everywhere clearing up and we did our bit by heading along the beach with a rubbish bag and filling it with all things man made washed up and out by the wind and waves. We were watched by a family of monkeys
We wandered back down the beach to the beach cafe which if I could I would have bought on the spot and retired to. The remainder of the day was spent in the sea, watching the surfers and G on her newly acquired body board.
Oh, I also asked G a question....Tomorrow we leave the island, there is little information about when or if the boats are sailing so it will be a 5.30am start
If you are reading this and the title really appeals to your sense of imagination then this will disappoint. I say disappoint in the sense that I really hope you don't read on as if too many people do then decide to go to this magical place then it will no longer be as magical and we all need to work out how to keep it so.
It was a late get up as the ferry did not depart til 11am, so i wandered into Mersing town to buy breakfast supplies and we lazed and packed up ready to join the fray at the port. Purchasing our tickets the night before seemed to have paid off and once we had then purchased our national park ticket to get onto the island we sat and waited til the movements of the masses indicated that the ferry would soon be loading. Omar was around again and after a look out to sea told me that the crossing would be ok....
We paid the inevitable fee for us loading our bikes on to the ferry and we headed out to sea through swells of 3-4ft and spray which I knew would test my brooks saddle. G nodded off to the movement of the boat and I watched the world go by including a barge of sand which towered at least 2 stories high headed down to Singapore, destined to reinforce another 'natural beach' or by sent on further around the globe.
The ferry arrived at the first drop off then made its way up the island, first impressions were awesome, a steep green spine of mountains running north to south with isolated villages clinging to the west coast only accessible by boat and some by foot. Our stop we had decided on the night before after much thinking was to be the main town of Teket. Now there is much out there on the interweb about this town and what we saw was extremely derogatory which actually is ok in that it means a few less people will come here and it will remain as unspoilt and as natural as it can in the 21st Century.
The island has a fascinating history, it is nearer Indonesia than Malaysia, founded a while back by 4 main families after a royal decree granted tracts of land to the first settlers and we met at least one of their descendants. Teket is the main town and on the left of the main jetty is what remains of the last attempt by the government to modernise the island, a promenade which is in part tiled and in part patched by concrete. The main port and jetty are new and still being finished along with a smart but questionably needed marina. There is a runway which provides flights for those in Singapore and KL who want a weekend away.
We off loaded our bikes, re packed and set off. Turning right at the end of the port road we headed down the concrete road past shops, restaurants (many closed for the refurbishment of the winter season), duty free stores and accommodation of every type and to suit most budgets. We were headed to Swiss Cottage, primarily because of the reviews and wanting our mini break and chill before the last leg of the journey and then home, to be as memorable as we possibly could make it.
We arrived amongst the palm trees to be greeted by a group of munchkins before we were able to check in to our beach side home for the next couple of days. I will leave the photos to do justice of where we found ourselves
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| Home |
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| The view to the left |
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| the view to the right |
Dinner at the chinese restaurant down the road was good and then it was back to base. Uninterrupted sleep was not for long as the heaving ocean outside the room was a sound to get used to.
24th January - Teket to Juara - 8km trek
Today we woke early to get out and up over the island via the jungle trek, a path that was originally cut by the Japanese during WW2 when Juara was the only inhabitable place on the island, and they were searching for places to store munitions. The path is a size 8 shoe wide and winds up the mountain through rainforest, it is a steep, in places stepped path that follows the route of the water feed to the island and the power cables, which in places are your only guide as to heading in the right direction.
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| Add caption |
Boy was it hot and humid, we had taken 3 litres of water each and by the time we reached the intersection with the one road that goes over the island we were down to our last 1/4 each. The road down into Juara was passable by 4x4 only primarily due to the steepness and it tested ones ability to walk in a manner that did leave you with balloon bruised knees.
Juara was sleepy but we settled down to a hearty brunch and watched the waves rolling in across the almost deserted beach
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| The view from our brunch table |
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| now that is a beach |
25th January 2011
Lazy day started with breakfast and a long conversation with a Scottish couple and Peter, the intrepid Dutchman now residing in Chile on his way to see his sister in Bali for her 80th birthday. Peter is a retired professor of psychology who has a view on many things and enjoys sharing it. We also found out that staying in the next resort to ours was a world renowned forensic entomologist! Blog update writing and playing in the massive waves now rolling in filled the afternoon before dinner...at the same place as the nights before.
26th January 2011 - The aftermath
Last night Tioman was hit by the worst storm in 3 years, we heard a lot of it but strangely slept through. we opened the door this morning to see the beach covered in debris and one of the bungalows behind us having been the resting place for a large tree. Islanders were everywhere clearing up and we did our bit by heading along the beach with a rubbish bag and filling it with all things man made washed up and out by the wind and waves. We were watched by a family of monkeys
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| Diving instructors, fire dancing trainers, all round musicians and surfers |
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| as happy as a |
Welcome and Warning - Crossing the Peninsula
20th January – Melaka to Parit Jawa – 40.48 miles, ride time 3.53, av 10.1, max 17.9
Now today showed marked contrast to what we realised had happened last night and the distance and ride time don’t give justice to how today panned out. Getting out of Melaka required instinct versus road signs. It is unbelievable or maybe not that the signs are in the main one way, sending you back the way you came and wont direct you away from the city...or maybe this was all a cunning plan...
Parit Jawa was not our intended destination but 20 miles into our ride we met with 4 Malay tourers. Rashid (Acid) was the main man I spoke to for the next 10 or so miles as we rode together towards their homes in Muar. Refreshment stop was paid for by them, the bike shop they took us to could not have been more helpful as when I entered another puncture happened and this time I was not the one with oil over me. The bike shop owner then unbeknown to us paid for our lunch next door. Acid was very knowledge in bicycle and motorbike touring terms and with his advice and discussion with his friends, we revised the route to ensure a better crossing of the country west to east, in a couple of days time. We then headed for a guesthouse recommended by him in Parit Jawa, a small fishing village on the coast. We checked in and then wandered to the jetty and watched the wildlife and world go by.
Parit Jawa was not our intended destination but 20 miles into our ride we met with 4 Malay tourers. Rashid (Acid) was the main man I spoke to for the next 10 or so miles as we rode together towards their homes in Muar. Refreshment stop was paid for by them, the bike shop they took us to could not have been more helpful as when I entered another puncture happened and this time I was not the one with oil over me. The bike shop owner then unbeknown to us paid for our lunch next door. Acid was very knowledge in bicycle and motorbike touring terms and with his advice and discussion with his friends, we revised the route to ensure a better crossing of the country west to east, in a couple of days time. We then headed for a guesthouse recommended by him in Parit Jawa, a small fishing village on the coast. We checked in and then wandered to the jetty and watched the wildlife and world go by.
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| Fishing |
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| Ummm, prehistoric |
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| Returning with the catch |
Dinner arrangements meant that Acid and 2 of his friends from this morning then joined us for food and again insisted on paying. This was only after G had been videoed putting her trailer together which should now be published on the interweb. Acid runs a website for tourers of all kinds and transport methods and with 40000 members and growing I think G will be building her fan base. We also learnt that for this climate, silicon oils are all well and good but 'Singer' sowing machine oil works just as well and at 50p a pop versus £6 makes economical sense too. (we have kept in contact with these guys so if you are ever in Malaysia on bicycle, motorbike, 4x4 then keep an eye out for these folks
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| Rashid (Acid) on the far right |
G also had some news tonight which we await confirmation but it looks as though she is secure in work when she returns.
21st January 2011 – Parit Jawa to Kluang – 56.40 miles, av 10.5, max. 18.7 max, ride time 5 hours and 21 minutes.
A speedy morning through Genting Plantations with a break after 20 miles and then the riding got hard as we faced the headwind which cuts across Malaysia from the monsoon season which hugs the east coast. Lunch at the newly opened ‘Organic Chicken’ gave us some insight into how the state of Johor sees itself. Organic everything from farms that we now pass. Batu Pahat, and my first near miss of the day when the driver of a 20 ton tipper forgot to look out of his windscreen as he entered from a side road into my path. Owl vision and 10 weeks of riding in SE Asia stopped me from becoming like the majority of snakes we have seen, which in the UK would be hedgehog equivalents, flat.
The gradients we were told about yesterday began in earnest outside Ayer Hitam a town which had taunted us for miles in its frequent mentions and the changing distance km markers. Arriving tired after riding through an average of 39 degrees and at least a 20mph headwind we entered Kluang. G did her usual of spotting a hotel sign from 4000 yards and we pulled in to look. I was distracted by a ‘coo-eee’ from a lady of a certain age carrying her bags and a folded umbrella.
Where we're we from and could she buy us a coffee were her first words and then when we explained we were looking for a hotel, she told us, and I mean told us, to follow her. She marched into the road, the umbrella went up and she told us to walk behind her, not ride across the 4 lanes of traffic she now held at bay with her raised hand to a hotel she said had the right old fashioned values of cleanliness we needed after a day in the saddle. Mrs Doubtfire I have named her, with a touch of Miss Marple an age somewhere between 50 and mid 60’s. We arrived at the hotel after many hello’s as she greeted and was greeted by what seemed everyone we passed.
Where we're we from and could she buy us a coffee were her first words and then when we explained we were looking for a hotel, she told us, and I mean told us, to follow her. She marched into the road, the umbrella went up and she told us to walk behind her, not ride across the 4 lanes of traffic she now held at bay with her raised hand to a hotel she said had the right old fashioned values of cleanliness we needed after a day in the saddle. Mrs Doubtfire I have named her, with a touch of Miss Marple an age somewhere between 50 and mid 60’s. We arrived at the hotel after many hello’s as she greeted and was greeted by what seemed everyone we passed.
The hotel took us in and our bikes and we were told, again, to meet her in 15 minutes at the coffee shop round the corner. It takes us a while to get gear in and bikes locked up and a knock at our hotel room door told us we were running a little later than expected.
The coffee shop was populated by men and the entire Kluang traffic police force, which she had also bought coffee for. She bought us ours and then said she must be off as she had things to do. I imagine she did with a level of energy and vigour that left us both exhausted and highly entertained. Thank you Jenny, I don’t know many seafood restaurants with public relations officers but can completely understand that you must be a loss to the seafood restaurant in Mersing. Now we could freshen up and de-grime from the day, then dinner, confirmed job offer for G…whoop! and retire to the land of cycling sheep…
22nd Janaury – Kluang to Mersing – 55.97 miles, av 10.1, max 26, ride time 5hrs 30mins
Sometimes you can be lulled into a false sense of security and today proved we needed wits about us at all times. This was a day of gradients and downhills only. Not a flat level stretch of road did our wheels pass over until a mile from our destination.
I wont mention cartographers again in any detail, but seriously a whole set of road networks that enabled us to save 10 miles of riding. The road was a 2 laner that led out of Kluang and into the hills and forests of the middle of the peninsular. Our first incident involved a fire engine, we had heard a set of sirens and first came to the 2 bike fire engines, don’t laugh, the firemen where in their bright orange disruptive pattern outfits looking like extras from a low budget spaghetti WW2 movie, hose reels attached to the back of their bikes and then they were followed 3 minutes later by a fire engine on a mission. It came so close to both of us that had we had loose clothing on we would have been taken with it. Then the articulated tanker that overtook me into oncoming traffic so close to its trailer as it swung in then another 3 inches and I would have been side-swiped. Later in the day we had a motorist drive towards with middle finger raised out of the window, either an unfortunate accident and should not have really been driving with a stiff arm or just plain rude!
The final incident left G shaken, we approached a right hand bend with much advance warning to slow down as it then became a 1 in 3 hill. G was behind me and I heard the screech of rubber as a car misjudged the bend and caused G to have the sense to bail out before being rear ended. The motorist did apologise, but not stop which had he we would had some serious gesticulatory activity. We needed to stop regroup and then rode the remainder of the way nose to tail with G in front. This was without doubt the closest both of us had come to ending the trip through no fault of our own.
Then to top off the day, at a set of roadworks we were flagged through by the man with the green flag, we could see the red being waved at the other end. A motorist however in his 4 x 4 pick-up, saw us and decided that we couldn’t take up the road and stop his progress. He ignored what was now being waved frenetically at him and swung out towards us head on. We have a tactic for this – make like a car with seriously mad grins on – side by side we rode and realising that these 2 fierce looking westerners were not slowing or even making any attempt to get out of his way, swung right off road into the ditch to go round us. What a pillock!
We did have the excitement of looking out for the curious and slow road crossing monkeys as a group of 40 seemed to ignore the airhorns of a speeding coach, the forests then gave way to deforestation and the tell tale scarring of the landscape as ecology was mismanaged. Young plantations were next before entering the more mature. Lunch was at a tiny roadside café on a road that didn’t exist and was incredible. Much laughter and banter from all the patrons was a great break from a day of insane motorists.
We arrived in Mersing well ahead of schedule, found a hotel and then cycled down to the port to find out the ferry times. This was when we found out that due to the monsoon season and the fatal accident on New Years Eve, that ferries were running once a day from and to the island of Tioman, our next destination. We stopped at a little cake shop on our way back to the hotel and were joined at our table by Omar who runs the backpackers hotel in town, perfect english, girlfriend of 26 years who is working in Hereford and many stories of him visiting friends in Truro and Penzance! Dinner that evening at P's run by a Swiss couple provided some useful insights into how life works in Malaysia as well as many stories of why we shouldnt make the sea crossing during monsoon season. Hey ho, let us see what tomorrow brings, we at least have re-stocked our book supplies as buying/trading second hand books in Malaysia is not the easiest or cheapest of activities.
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| the route lies over yonder |
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| oh and then on a bit |
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| over the top of that hill I'm sure |
We arrived in Mersing well ahead of schedule, found a hotel and then cycled down to the port to find out the ferry times. This was when we found out that due to the monsoon season and the fatal accident on New Years Eve, that ferries were running once a day from and to the island of Tioman, our next destination. We stopped at a little cake shop on our way back to the hotel and were joined at our table by Omar who runs the backpackers hotel in town, perfect english, girlfriend of 26 years who is working in Hereford and many stories of him visiting friends in Truro and Penzance! Dinner that evening at P's run by a Swiss couple provided some useful insights into how life works in Malaysia as well as many stories of why we shouldnt make the sea crossing during monsoon season. Hey ho, let us see what tomorrow brings, we at least have re-stocked our book supplies as buying/trading second hand books in Malaysia is not the easiest or cheapest of activities.
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