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I have never really written about Poh a thriteen year old boy who befriended us, and many other westerners in Phnom Penh. I hope that he is well and healthy and through generosity of foreigners, travellers and tourists manages to get his education off the streets and into school. Everyday he peddles books from a tray round his neck but his charm, cheek and persistence meant I would go next door to the shop to get his daily coke and let him play racing games on my phone or laptop. Why? because Poh symbolised Cambodia, it is a country that is ripe for western aid and imperialism through development agencies, it is ripe for raping its natural resources yet I implore anyone who reads this to let Cambodia find its own feet in the world, stop the child exploitation and sex tourist trade but let the smiles and beauty of its people shine through. They have emerged from horror blinking into a society that is both religious and unsteady. It needs support but not dominance. Cambodia is the most awesome nation I have ever been to and I would tomorrow go again to experience more of its splendour and isolation. When I think I have it tough I think of Poh, whose home is with his grandparents, whose school days are the street, whose english already has sarcasm and wit and whose strengh I admired. Once and only once in that week in the capital did I see him as a child laughing and playing with his siblings in the grounds of S21...the irony is there for all to see. The mechanic who knew from sign language what I needed done to fix my front rack. The norrie train and its sad demise in the face of the race for speed, access and imported wealth The kindness of our friend outside Bangkok demonstrated how Thailand could still be the land of smiles. The chilli levels still make my toes and tongue curl but it has increased my tolerance no end. Our epic ride across central penisula Thailand through the rain and storms on our longest day will live with me for the mental strenght my angel brought to bear and who managed me throughout the trip. We were there for each other 100% and we ebbed and flowed like I have with no other, 102 days together and only 1hr and 45 mins apart in that entire time...that beats Relate and any other counselling model I know to determine can 2 people work together and be together physically, emotionally and intellectually. They can if they feel they have nothing to prove to each other only to themselves. Stopping in the Tsunami centre in Thailand was another moment in that it humbled me more than any other event or activity. The Blue Mansion on Penang was utterly beautiful and should be on everyones list of places to see before their maker decides their sell by date is up. Being paddled in a canoe through Jurrasic Park Meeting Rashid and his friends and that continuing ebased relationship has shown that some things do and are meant to be. Seeing and understanding what a song bird is and how they compete, I dont understand it but in some way can relate to its simplicity Riding a wide berth round men walking their prize and highly decorated Bulls at 7am along the side of a dual carriageway into a city Tioman, the island on which I proposed to Georgie will have different and lasting memories as will the Sunday morning in March when she said yes and a new chapter began... Thank you for reading this and sharing my journey, it wont make a Hollywood film, but when you love someone and you know in your head, your heart and your gut that it really is love, it can make you do the craziest of things... Take care, be safe and live life everyday |
Friday, 17 June 2011
Reflections
The last day of this adventure
We woke, breakfasted outside on the terrace watching mr mouse run the guantlet of the street outside of Sleepy Sams, it was warm and muggy and there was much shopping to be done as neither of us had actually bought any clothing or shoes capable of withstanding the climate in the UK in February. We managed one mall, they are all large, they are all relatively faceless but packed with the usual and the unusual brands.
After a day of this we headed back, grabbed our gear and over to rodalink to do final packing and then the taxi plus bikes to the airport. Uneventful all the way really until we reached the airport, breathed in and prayed that the bikes and luggage would go through at 30kg each. seriously if you can fly emriates, the service was superb and although we were a tad over no problem and we were in the enormous state of the art airport departures with enough time for dinner and another brief shop.
On closer inspection our flight seemed to have grown legs, at least another stage as we were now flying to Dubai, which we knew but via Columbo, Sri Lanka! we waved farewell to our adventure and landed at some time in the early hours of the morning at Colombo airport where we sat on the plane, endured the deodorising sprays that are part of an odd set of regulations and then we set off for Dubai.
Dubai airport was ok, breakfast was both arms and legs required and some currency conversion and after a 3hour layover we headed forwards to Heathrow.
the flight was uneventful other than cramming in as many movies as I could and we arrived to a decidedly murky world of the UK and my bro and his truck with Charlie for the 2 hour drive home to somerset for a couple of days before taking G back to Eastbourne.
Reflections are many and they will follow sometime soon
After a day of this we headed back, grabbed our gear and over to rodalink to do final packing and then the taxi plus bikes to the airport. Uneventful all the way really until we reached the airport, breathed in and prayed that the bikes and luggage would go through at 30kg each. seriously if you can fly emriates, the service was superb and although we were a tad over no problem and we were in the enormous state of the art airport departures with enough time for dinner and another brief shop.
On closer inspection our flight seemed to have grown legs, at least another stage as we were now flying to Dubai, which we knew but via Columbo, Sri Lanka! we waved farewell to our adventure and landed at some time in the early hours of the morning at Colombo airport where we sat on the plane, endured the deodorising sprays that are part of an odd set of regulations and then we set off for Dubai.
Dubai airport was ok, breakfast was both arms and legs required and some currency conversion and after a 3hour layover we headed forwards to Heathrow.
the flight was uneventful other than cramming in as many movies as I could and we arrived to a decidedly murky world of the UK and my bro and his truck with Charlie for the 2 hour drive home to somerset for a couple of days before taking G back to Eastbourne.
Reflections are many and they will follow sometime soon
A new culture...kind of
February 1st to February 5th 2011
I have very differing memories of Singapore, all good but I guess tinged with the reality that this was our final destination before heading home and all that lay in store for us.
The logistics stuff needed to be done such as getting the bikes cleaned down and boxed up, we decided to fedex our heavier kit home to avoid the crippling excess that had befallen me on my way out here and thanks go to the lady at Fedex who was so helpful and also to Rodalink for sorting out the bikes for us.
I think that Singapore is definitely for you if you love the western/eastern vibe, luxury and indulgence. I used to but found it stifling at times. I think it is because we became more tourist than adventurers and i know now what really appeals to me.
Chinatown on the day before the Chinese New Year was spectacular in sounds, sights and crowds. The night safari was a breathtaking experience especially seeing the flying fox bats in action and I have to recommend this as long as you keep the noise to a minimum and be patient., Little India was the closest I have come to experiencing real India and such a contrast to the rest of Singapore, the MRT did exactly what it said it would in transporting you round the city. Sentosa Island was an experience..more on this one later however in amongst all of this was the opportunity to reflect on what we had achieved together.
I had never cycled toured, I had none of the kit 4 weeks before I left, I have 2 beautiful children, I was away from them for Christmas and my birthday and yet in the space of 3 weeks I told them I was going away, I bought the kit, I bought the bike and set off on the biggest adventure of my life. It was without doubt the maddest, most challenging and awesome thing I have ever done and will require a little thinking about to share my views so more on this and Sentosa to come but here is Singapore in pictures
Sentosa Island is at the southern most tip of mainland SE Asia. Purpose built, imported sand from other nations such as Malaysia have made a beach, well 4 and dependant on your level of well healedness you could visit any. Whislt we were there we witnessed the discipline and rigour that makes Singapore one of the safest places to be a tourist...well kind of.
It was mid way through the afternoon and we were swimming in the lagoon with the sights of the worlds largest port all around us. Suddenly one of the very official looking life guards grabbed his bullhorn and exclaimed in singlese that there was a category 4 lightening storm approaching and everyone, I mean everyone had to leave the sea. Amazing! there were many indian men at the beach in their usual groups of 20 with jeans of varying fits, leather shoes and shirts. Many taking photos ill disguised of the beauties on the beach and not there friends standing to one side of behind them. They also like to swim, in their boxers, also forbidden.
Mr lifeguard had a job on his hands and thank you to my very large friend next to us on the beach who not only was an awesome beat boxer but also could mimic the bullhorn and the guys voice so to much amusement did and corrected the english of the lifegueard and made up some instructions on what people could do. Lifeguard 2 turned up on a segway the chosen vehicle of the troop and after 45 minutes of rule breaking swimmers and no sign of the now category 2 lightening storm we were allowed back in the sea.
On our return to the cable car we decided to experience 4D cinema - very good and very real to the point the rollercoaster ride threw up all sorts of memories. We wandered home and knew that the very next day was to be our final of this adventure.
I have very differing memories of Singapore, all good but I guess tinged with the reality that this was our final destination before heading home and all that lay in store for us.
The logistics stuff needed to be done such as getting the bikes cleaned down and boxed up, we decided to fedex our heavier kit home to avoid the crippling excess that had befallen me on my way out here and thanks go to the lady at Fedex who was so helpful and also to Rodalink for sorting out the bikes for us.
I think that Singapore is definitely for you if you love the western/eastern vibe, luxury and indulgence. I used to but found it stifling at times. I think it is because we became more tourist than adventurers and i know now what really appeals to me.
Chinatown on the day before the Chinese New Year was spectacular in sounds, sights and crowds. The night safari was a breathtaking experience especially seeing the flying fox bats in action and I have to recommend this as long as you keep the noise to a minimum and be patient., Little India was the closest I have come to experiencing real India and such a contrast to the rest of Singapore, the MRT did exactly what it said it would in transporting you round the city. Sentosa Island was an experience..more on this one later however in amongst all of this was the opportunity to reflect on what we had achieved together.
I had never cycled toured, I had none of the kit 4 weeks before I left, I have 2 beautiful children, I was away from them for Christmas and my birthday and yet in the space of 3 weeks I told them I was going away, I bought the kit, I bought the bike and set off on the biggest adventure of my life. It was without doubt the maddest, most challenging and awesome thing I have ever done and will require a little thinking about to share my views so more on this and Sentosa to come but here is Singapore in pictures
 |
| China town gearing up |
 |
| China town in full flow |
 |
| Millions of them |
 |
| Yep converse all stars on a mutt |
 |
| Now it was the year of the....damn it I forget |
 |
| Chinatown as was |
 |
| Look a little closer and you will see they are asleep |
 |
| The light of my life |
 |
| Me |
 |
| The view from the cable car to Sentosa |
 |
| A massive flower display dedicated to the year of the.... |
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| A pose that is normally eastern led |
 |
| A water feature we were asked to remove ourselves from |
 |
| Just to prove we were there |
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| Singapore in a sign |
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| Leaving sentosa |
It was mid way through the afternoon and we were swimming in the lagoon with the sights of the worlds largest port all around us. Suddenly one of the very official looking life guards grabbed his bullhorn and exclaimed in singlese that there was a category 4 lightening storm approaching and everyone, I mean everyone had to leave the sea. Amazing! there were many indian men at the beach in their usual groups of 20 with jeans of varying fits, leather shoes and shirts. Many taking photos ill disguised of the beauties on the beach and not there friends standing to one side of behind them. They also like to swim, in their boxers, also forbidden.
Mr lifeguard had a job on his hands and thank you to my very large friend next to us on the beach who not only was an awesome beat boxer but also could mimic the bullhorn and the guys voice so to much amusement did and corrected the english of the lifegueard and made up some instructions on what people could do. Lifeguard 2 turned up on a segway the chosen vehicle of the troop and after 45 minutes of rule breaking swimmers and no sign of the now category 2 lightening storm we were allowed back in the sea.
On our return to the cable car we decided to experience 4D cinema - very good and very real to the point the rollercoaster ride threw up all sorts of memories. We wandered home and knew that the very next day was to be our final of this adventure.
Saturday, 4 June 2011
The final leg
31st January 2011 - Koti Tinggi to Singapore - 48.26 miles, av 10, max 25.9, ride time 4hrs 47mins
Horrendous in a word. There are no photos of this bit as the rain fell in monsoon sheets from the moment we set off til we arrived in central Singapore. The road conditions were horrendous not just in terms of rain but also the state of the road on the main drag into Johor Bahru, the last city before Singapore.
At one point we managed to avoid a pothole about 8ft across and on the other side of it, 5 cars all with blown out tyres after being less fortunate than us. Cycling into Johor is not for the feint hearted but one tip we followed and have already recommended for others is follow the first sign that says to the customs point with a weight limit of 5 tons and you end up opposite the motorbike entrance to Woodlands the complex built as a crossing point from Malaysia to Singapore. Immigration and customs were more interested in our journey than most and we emerged onto the bridge that separates these 2 nations.
Cycling for another 5 minutes puts you in Singapore where the regulation and rigour that awaits your stay here starts. Quick stamps, asking the local police the best way into the city and we were off, ignoring their advice that they 'thought' it would be ok to use the highway/expressway and settled for the slightly longer route circumventing this.
I was not in a great mood to enjoy the sights as we cycled into Sing and part of this was we by far in a way needed a more detailed map and secondly there are more traffic lights in Sing than I have ever seen anywhere in the world.
Lunch was a quick stop and to get some cash then we hunted out Arab street and our home for the next 5 days - 'sleepy sams'. we arrived, checked in, stored the bikes, and sat for a bit to calm the mental whirling that had befallen us on our last day of riding. It did not feel like elation, more dejection that after so many revolutions we would not be riding like we had for a while longer in our lives.
Dinner in the Moroccan restaurant opposite SS was a good end to the day but when my head hit the pillow that night, I felt there really was some unfinished business.
Horrendous in a word. There are no photos of this bit as the rain fell in monsoon sheets from the moment we set off til we arrived in central Singapore. The road conditions were horrendous not just in terms of rain but also the state of the road on the main drag into Johor Bahru, the last city before Singapore.
At one point we managed to avoid a pothole about 8ft across and on the other side of it, 5 cars all with blown out tyres after being less fortunate than us. Cycling into Johor is not for the feint hearted but one tip we followed and have already recommended for others is follow the first sign that says to the customs point with a weight limit of 5 tons and you end up opposite the motorbike entrance to Woodlands the complex built as a crossing point from Malaysia to Singapore. Immigration and customs were more interested in our journey than most and we emerged onto the bridge that separates these 2 nations.
Cycling for another 5 minutes puts you in Singapore where the regulation and rigour that awaits your stay here starts. Quick stamps, asking the local police the best way into the city and we were off, ignoring their advice that they 'thought' it would be ok to use the highway/expressway and settled for the slightly longer route circumventing this.
I was not in a great mood to enjoy the sights as we cycled into Sing and part of this was we by far in a way needed a more detailed map and secondly there are more traffic lights in Sing than I have ever seen anywhere in the world.
Lunch was a quick stop and to get some cash then we hunted out Arab street and our home for the next 5 days - 'sleepy sams'. we arrived, checked in, stored the bikes, and sat for a bit to calm the mental whirling that had befallen us on our last day of riding. It did not feel like elation, more dejection that after so many revolutions we would not be riding like we had for a while longer in our lives.
Dinner in the Moroccan restaurant opposite SS was a good end to the day but when my head hit the pillow that night, I felt there really was some unfinished business.
Monsoon Season
30th January - Mersing to Kota Tinggi - 56.21 miles, Av 10.7, Max 28.5, 5 hours and 12 minutes
Ummm - a quick description of the day - gradients, gradients, monsoon, snakes, flooding, kingfishers, monkeys and a thunderstorm plus more flooding...if you have not got the time this probably sums up the day.
This was a day of gradients and whilst we had not been in the saddle for a while, they were still undulating to say the least. We left Mersing in the murky dawn and arrived in Kota Tinggi in monsoon rain and flooding, it was one of those days were what you wore dictated how you felt.The hard shoulder was good though until we really needed it on the outskirts of KT were it formed a river 8 inches deep that neither of us could cycle through so we joined the traffic on the 2 lane highway which had its moments of scariness.
We rode south from Mersing though palm oil after palm oil plantation with only the brilliance of the kingfishers to maintain our momentum. Our morning break stop in a tiny little shack on the road side was a most welcome break from the rain
and lunch in a coach stop was a buffet affair where we came objects of conversation and viewing.
The roads were undulating and in one spot we stopped to test the water as it flooded across the road, I probably did not need to test it as many times as I did but it was a first and needed to be experienced.
Saw these 2 pill box affairs on the side of the road, as we rode past it was extremely concerning to note the amount of different colours of paint that had been left after drivers misjudging the fact that these small things jut out into the road very slightly!
We rode on during the afternoon and then the rain of the monsoon really came down, cars hit their brakes and hazards went on, the traffic was crawling at around 5mph both ways and it is the only time on the trip so far we were (a) forced to stop because of the weather and (b) unable to get a shot of the 'beware of wild elephants' sign - looking just like the sign for cattle in the UK in an unassuming way but with the words 'wild' and 'elephant' emblazoned on them. We had been warned that during the early hours of the morning they do like to come on to the road as the tarmac retains the heat of the day. Many motorists coming north from Sing have met a sticky end at the flanks of one of these beasts but it kept our friend in Tioman in work!
This was the abandoned restaurant that sheltered us for 30mins whilst we waited for the rain to ease. Complete with rusty hinged swinging door, it wasnt relaxing but at least it was semi dry.
Once the rain had got down to a more manageable level, one in which we could see and be seen we headed on to Kota Tinggi. The flooding got worse and a hotel in town became our sole focus. The Water Lillies hotel would not pass through the ASA regulations as it was missing its vital title ingredient but the owner, we think he was, had a shop next door which he let us store the bikes in and then promptly shut the shop up. We strolled the town and supermarket opposite for last minute and breakfast supplies then we headed off to internet heaven in McDs which also sadly became dinner in the absence of any restaurant staff in the nearby eateries willing to serve us. Tomorrow we head into Singapore....
Ummm - a quick description of the day - gradients, gradients, monsoon, snakes, flooding, kingfishers, monkeys and a thunderstorm plus more flooding...if you have not got the time this probably sums up the day.
This was a day of gradients and whilst we had not been in the saddle for a while, they were still undulating to say the least. We left Mersing in the murky dawn and arrived in Kota Tinggi in monsoon rain and flooding, it was one of those days were what you wore dictated how you felt.The hard shoulder was good though until we really needed it on the outskirts of KT were it formed a river 8 inches deep that neither of us could cycle through so we joined the traffic on the 2 lane highway which had its moments of scariness.
We rode south from Mersing though palm oil after palm oil plantation with only the brilliance of the kingfishers to maintain our momentum. Our morning break stop in a tiny little shack on the road side was a most welcome break from the rain
and lunch in a coach stop was a buffet affair where we came objects of conversation and viewing.
The roads were undulating and in one spot we stopped to test the water as it flooded across the road, I probably did not need to test it as many times as I did but it was a first and needed to be experienced.
 |
| should be ok |
 |
| it is ok! |
 |
| Relief at the top of a gradient takes many faces |
 |
| especially when the next one is downhill |
 |
| but then again up |
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| and down and up and down and up |
 | |||
| Wish I could find out what these were? |
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| Not impressed but better than riding out this one |
 | |||
| Wet....very |
Once the rain had got down to a more manageable level, one in which we could see and be seen we headed on to Kota Tinggi. The flooding got worse and a hotel in town became our sole focus. The Water Lillies hotel would not pass through the ASA regulations as it was missing its vital title ingredient but the owner, we think he was, had a shop next door which he let us store the bikes in and then promptly shut the shop up. We strolled the town and supermarket opposite for last minute and breakfast supplies then we headed off to internet heaven in McDs which also sadly became dinner in the absence of any restaurant staff in the nearby eateries willing to serve us. Tomorrow we head into Singapore....
Stranded
January 27th
A5.30am alarm call and we packed up and loaded up for the less than a km ride to the port, no boat til Sunday....at the earliest...so back we went to not much surprise from anyone and G laid down and zonked.
I went to breakfast and had a entertaining feast of conversation with Peter. He was a psychologist and lectured in it back in his native Netherlands but after traveling Europe in his camper he drove onto a boat and arrived in Chile. He was probably one of the most learned conversationalists or should I say learned monologue experts but it was interesting to hear that even at the ripe young age of 74 you can still not rid your spirit of the travel bug. I know of the madness of governmental bureaucracy in the UK but in Europe I was not so well informed. Imagine traveling all over Europe for 4 years and each year having to return home to tax your vehicle...bonkers if you think about it...which I hadnt up until then.
G and I eventually wandered down to the beach cafe for banana pancakes which was better than sitting in the bungalow waiting for the toilet to be unblocked! Not a fault of ours you will be pleased to hear more the tree roots and pipes in the sand having ongoing battles. No news on boats so we will remain optimistic for Sunday as this now directly impacts on our plans for Sing.
28th January
Chill, chill, eat, chill - if this paid a wage I could seriously get used to it. We spent the day writing blog updates and trying in vain to publish them on struggling internet connections and then a power cut put paid to any further attempts. The evening was spent with our new friends in the beach bar. All the guys were playing instruments or singing or both tonight. It was a privilege to be welcomed into their world and we spent a good hour talking to the bar owner who also happens to be, and in no particular order - dive instructor, climber, cyclist, surfer, singer, drummer, fire stick instructor, tow truck driver and grandson of one of the 4 founding families of Tioman. He is one of the most educated, informative and above all humblest of individuals I have ever met and at the ripe old age of 30 his views on the environment, ecology and community were just awesome. I want to live on this island at some stage in my life and if not to visit again.
29th January - the storm part 2
Woken in the early hours by the crashing of waves and wailing of the storm wind as it did its utmost to remove us from our 3rd bungalow and all thoughts of getting up early to see if the boat was there started to fade. We woke to find a calm see and a queue to get back on the first boat to the mainland. We met a family from New Zealand who had been trekking as a 6 across India and Nepal and were on Tioman for a short break...longer than anticipated but they were interested in our travels as much as we theirs. What an amazing education for their children.It was 13.00 before we set off and whilst the boat tried to dock at all villages south it was unable to do so, the sea was rough. G slept with me doing my best to maintain equilibrium just sitting in the seat. There was a lot going on around us and they took a different route back, slower but allegedly safer.
Watched Tekken on DVD and almost before we knew it we were in Mersing 2 hours later.
Hotel Mersing was our stop for the night, Internet cafe and back to P's for dinner and to share our tales with the Swiss owners. No matter what they say, Tioman is worth a visit, but please do not tell everyone.
A5.30am alarm call and we packed up and loaded up for the less than a km ride to the port, no boat til Sunday....at the earliest...so back we went to not much surprise from anyone and G laid down and zonked.
I went to breakfast and had a entertaining feast of conversation with Peter. He was a psychologist and lectured in it back in his native Netherlands but after traveling Europe in his camper he drove onto a boat and arrived in Chile. He was probably one of the most learned conversationalists or should I say learned monologue experts but it was interesting to hear that even at the ripe young age of 74 you can still not rid your spirit of the travel bug. I know of the madness of governmental bureaucracy in the UK but in Europe I was not so well informed. Imagine traveling all over Europe for 4 years and each year having to return home to tax your vehicle...bonkers if you think about it...which I hadnt up until then.
G and I eventually wandered down to the beach cafe for banana pancakes which was better than sitting in the bungalow waiting for the toilet to be unblocked! Not a fault of ours you will be pleased to hear more the tree roots and pipes in the sand having ongoing battles. No news on boats so we will remain optimistic for Sunday as this now directly impacts on our plans for Sing.
28th January
Chill, chill, eat, chill - if this paid a wage I could seriously get used to it. We spent the day writing blog updates and trying in vain to publish them on struggling internet connections and then a power cut put paid to any further attempts. The evening was spent with our new friends in the beach bar. All the guys were playing instruments or singing or both tonight. It was a privilege to be welcomed into their world and we spent a good hour talking to the bar owner who also happens to be, and in no particular order - dive instructor, climber, cyclist, surfer, singer, drummer, fire stick instructor, tow truck driver and grandson of one of the 4 founding families of Tioman. He is one of the most educated, informative and above all humblest of individuals I have ever met and at the ripe old age of 30 his views on the environment, ecology and community were just awesome. I want to live on this island at some stage in my life and if not to visit again.
 |
| The morning after the night before |
29th January - the storm part 2
Woken in the early hours by the crashing of waves and wailing of the storm wind as it did its utmost to remove us from our 3rd bungalow and all thoughts of getting up early to see if the boat was there started to fade. We woke to find a calm see and a queue to get back on the first boat to the mainland. We met a family from New Zealand who had been trekking as a 6 across India and Nepal and were on Tioman for a short break...longer than anticipated but they were interested in our travels as much as we theirs. What an amazing education for their children.It was 13.00 before we set off and whilst the boat tried to dock at all villages south it was unable to do so, the sea was rough. G slept with me doing my best to maintain equilibrium just sitting in the seat. There was a lot going on around us and they took a different route back, slower but allegedly safer.
Watched Tekken on DVD and almost before we knew it we were in Mersing 2 hours later.
Hotel Mersing was our stop for the night, Internet cafe and back to P's for dinner and to share our tales with the Swiss owners. No matter what they say, Tioman is worth a visit, but please do not tell everyone.
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