Rest...what rest and the longest day

6^th December – Chumphon  a very rainy rest day!

Now when I say rest day you may imagine a lie in, late breakfast, a wander around to take in the sights sounds and culture of yet another new town. Ahhh if only that were so..rest days are and in no particular order – laundry, research including reading Lonely Planet hardcopy and softcopy plus Footprint, planning, internet – email/blog and if there is time a an hour of doing nothing but drinking Sprite or coffee and watching the world go by. These are rest days as I now know and love them, very different to my previous interpretation of the word rest…

I have also had the chance, 22 minutes, to muse on how I should change my blog, do I keep on writing a daily update or do I change to writing some longer more thought provoking posts that are a summation of my time on the bike and pull from my daily written diary. I am writing this post 14 days after it happened which seems a little bonkers but the time in the evenings at the end of a day’s riding are normally full of searching for a place to lay our heads, cleaning the days grime from our every pore, finding breakfast ingredients and then dinner. By the time dinner is over it is definitely time for a repack and nunnights before the next days 5.30am alarm call.

My 22 minutes was not really long enough today so we will see how we go on trying to do both…

7^th December – Chumphon to Ranong – 78.17 miles, Av 11.1, Max 31.6, ride time 7 hours

OMG x a gazillion, this was and is so far my longest day both in the saddle and miles covered. It was also G’s same personal achievement. In addition this was my first experience of a tropical rain/thunder storm that last for the whole day until about 5 miles from Ranong! This is part of what this adventure has been about for me, the ability to test myself physically as well as mentally. We had been discussing this day for a number of days before hand as it was going to be a serious undertaking. We had a halfway point planned in should either of us need it but I think both of us were determined that we would make it to Ranong today.

It was also the first day that hot coffee was required as the temperature plummeted to 23 degrees, add the speed of riding plus the fact that no waterproof would have ever stood up to the weight or the rain, so we were soaked through meant that our first break at 28 miles (another record) found us at a little store on the road side that provide welcome warmth. Thunder, lightning (counting the gaps as it got nearer), the largest snake we have seen so far (assumed dead as in the road but too damn scared to stop and prod it), bloated toads and beautiful lush green jungle made up the view from under my helmet cover.

One of the things I am most concerned about however is the increasing understanding that Thai eyesight is so unbelievably powerful. I am not sure whether this is a recognised threat to global peace but if I were in charge of anything I would most definitely want to ensure that the Thai’s were on my side. Thai’s drive everywhere, we are often not only stared at because we happen to be the only westerners in town overnight but more of the stare is directed at the fact that we are walking. From birth Thai’s, dependant on the level of income are born to passenger on a motorbike or pickup. The balance they have is awe-inspiring but today proved that eyesight needs to be added to the list of talents.

They can see, round bends, through rainstorms, over the top of hills, round hairpins and switchbacks, past coaches who are overtaking Lorries who are overtaking motorbikes. It is amazing and at the same time for a cyclist truly horrifying to think what may be or could be. But in the entire time of riding to date we have yet to witness anything other than the fact that their eyesight must be as powerful as I am led to believe as a first hand witness.

I climbed my first switchback today and as it was towards the end of the day most parts of my body did protest very very much. But made it to the top in the bottom of gears and then cracked my highest speed so far through the 10 plus switchbacks on the way down the other side and into Ranong.

We found a lovely little place to stay – Dahlas – and in our own little bungalow patted ourselves on the back for a day well ridden and went off to find dinner. Crocodile steak for me.