Majestic, breathtaking, awe-inspiring, wonderment, amazing, puzzling, exceptional, stunning would all be adjectives that would still be missing a little something extra to be able to do justice to the complexity, intricacy, grandeur, design, artistry, of what we have seen today. It has been one of those days where everywhere you look, you see something different.
The light, the dark, the shadows, the hot, the cool of each temple has been so different, and reflects in itself the emphasis each King placed on its creation in worship of Hinduism, Buddhism and/or as a capital of the Angkoran Empire. Created from 800AD to the middle of the 14th Century, lost to time til the mid 1800's and still more discoveries in 1914. Restoration started, then stopped frequently and ended all together from 1975. It is now getting some of the funding required but in terms of enough or the right type you can see it is woefully lacking. Many governments are contributing to the renovation of the temples and signs proudly display what India, Switzerland and France are doing. The French have some history here being the original rediscoverers and also pillaged many temples to enrich French culture!
It has been hot today, we have consumed amongst the ruins, stone staircases, carvings and paintings a vast quantity of water, far more than the hottest day cycling. The steps up to many of the temples are crazy steep, the steps down pant trembling. The views are spectacular and the sounds of the jungle are intriguing and mildly painful on the neck. The sounds of the hawkers and sellers of trinkets, drinks and anything sir or beautiful lady would want are persistent in nature. Troy whom we met at our last temple of the day being a great example of persistence, cheek and humour paying off. G and I tried many different nationalities on today to throw these children off the scent of 'dollaaar' or 'candeeeeeeeeee' but their knowledge of the world population statistics, world leaders and capital cities is as surprising as it is worrying. If they get it right they expect you to buy and the more creative challenge you to test your knowledge and if you get it wrong you buy.
Liechtenstein and Ulam Bator are the ones I am going to try tomorrow - surely they cant guess and get right the statistics on those, however I have a feeling I may yet again be outwitted.
This is commercialism on a small but for Cambodia, significant scale. Without tourist dollars then the children dont go to school, they dont learn and there future is bleaker than it should be. This is a happy nation despite what it has been through, the hello's continue, the persistence of questions is relentless without being over bearing, the smiles are infectious and the laughter of all ages memorable. I like Cambodia alot and hope that having started my journey here then it will continue to be so through the remainder of SE Asia.
As I have mentioned and dreamt about, Tomb Raider was filmed in parts of these magnificent temples and when moments of peace descend and the snapping of Japanese tourists ceases albeit briefly then you do really start to feel like an adventurer. I can only imagine what it must have been like to discover after 400 years a lost Kingdom such as this. You are a naturist not an archaeologist and your eyes must be playing tricks on you. However the desecration, vandalism and destruction that happened in the mid 1970's has left its mark. Many if not all of the Buddhas have no heads, knocked off by both the misinformed and the malicious.
As we wandered on ramparts and through archways reinforced with wooden supports I imagine a member of the UK's HSE on holiday here. They would have not been able to move without serious palpitations.
This complex of temples cannot be appreciated in a day, no matter how early you wake or return. It is open from 5.30am to 6.30pm but believe me you would be selling yourself and your soul short to not come back. So tomorrow is the sunrise at Angkor Wat. 4.30am start, ummm making sandwiches tonight to keep G both awake and slightly less grumpy. I cant wait!
So today is summed up in the following pictures...
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